Hey Teacher, Leave those kids alone

5 08 2011

The children I had met in the school were always utterly delighted to see me. If truth be told it was a tremendous ego boost as well as being wonderfully charming. I love going there as never before has my arrival anywhere been so warmly welcome. They all wanted to hold my hand and show me the work they were proud of. They made me smile, I made them smile – it was a match made in heaven. This is how it should always be I decided and I assumed that all kids in Paga would have a similar reaction.

And then I started working in the clinic. Very quickly it became blatantly clear to me that there is nothing scarier to a local baby or very young child than a white man. Not that I am remotely white. At this stage I am like a swatch sample ranging from various bright pinks to shocking reds on account of the relentless Ghanaian sun.

 

When these kids lay eyes on me they begin roaring – and no amount of funny faces, smiles or encouraging laughing will deter their mission to raise all hell through the use of their tiny but powerful lungs.

And that’s before they realise that I am about to come at them with a sharp needle that will make them bleed. In fact it didn’t take them long to figure out that my only intention was to draw their blood. I have no doubt that there are countless young Ghanaians who now have nightmares of the scary white monster and his vicious weapon.

The very worst cases are the slightly older children who are all smiles at the novelty of meeting me before monitoring closely my movements and quickly working out the destiny that awaits their tiny quivering finger. Their expression instantly turns to one of brutal betrayal. And let me make it perfectly clear that the very last thing I ever want to do in life is hurt the poor wee defenseless kids. It kills me to take out the lancet and jab it into their fingers as streams of tears begin to flow. Some don’t just cry – they roar like no living creature has ever roared before, as if in utter deadly terror. When this happens I feel like rushing around to everyone in the clinic to convince them that I did not come here to torture their children. Little boys are the worst I must admit. Most of them are ridiculous cowards and begin sobbing before they even sit down. Each morning I went to work hoping that I wouldn’t have too many children to test and each evening I attempted to erase the trauma their reactions caused in me.

And then one day a mother and her very young son came in, him sleeping soundly in her arms. As always when I see a parent and child I say a quick prayer that it is only the adult that needs testing. But this time no one answered my pleading and the victim, ahem, patient was the tiny boy. I swabbed his finger while he still slept, took out my needle and as always performed the ordeal as quickly as I could. I braced myself for the piercing screams that would follow and was indeed deafened – by silence. Not a budge from the sleepy soul. He hadn’t even woken up.

From that moment on my sympathy for these kids has diminished dramatically. Virtually Painless the box of lancets proudly displays and I am now inclined to believe it. If it doesn’t even wake a sleeping boy how bad can it really be?

That notwithstanding I have resorted to bribery. When I have completed the procedure and the sobbing is in full swing I now whip out a lollipop or a biscuit. And sometimes, just sometimes the crying stops, they tilt their heads and you can almost imagine their little minds trying to deliberate whether I am really Child’s Enemy No. 1 or just occasionally sadistic.

More often than not however they grab the sweets, and without dipping a single decibel continue their vocal protest and throw me a devastating look of disgust before leaving my room with a drop less of blood and a fist full of candy.





I’ve got a bowling ball in my stomach and a desert in my mouth

4 08 2011

Another funny quirk about Ghana is that while English is the (only) official language it isn’t actually anyone’s mother tongue. There are instead a host of local languages spoken throughout the country which vary dramatically from region to region. Often if someone needs to communicate with a party from a different region they need to use English – or at least a version of the language that vaguely resembles English. Speaking English in Ghana brings all sorts of dramatic entertainment to my days here. I can only imagine what happens during a government debate. It might also explain why everything happens painfully slowly here, if it happens at all.

When someone says ‘I like it too much’ you don’t need to worry that they’ve developed an unhealthy dependency, it merely means that they like the subject in question, a lot. There is a lot of guess work involved in deciphering conversations, with varying degrees of success. One of my recent misunderstandings had me instantly advancing my career at the clinic.

Now to say that Ghana is hot is an understatement. No amount of persuasion by the locals that this is the coolest season will make me change my mind. 36 degrees is piping hot in Conorland! Seeing as I am terrific perspirer at the best of times living in Ghana has made me positively Olympian in the function of sweating. Bear in mind that I can manage to whip up a sweat in Holland when it’s minus 10 degrees.

So my cycle to work in the mornings is a challenge – not only because of the oven-like temperatures but also because the journey is entirely uphill. When I finally arrive, my appearance is on the devastating side of dignified. I begin mopping my brow as I lock my bike and flutter my shirt dramatically during my walk to the lab in the vain hope that it may dry even a little. So on day two, having spent just one full day observing the staff at their work and they observing my damp morning arrivals, I wasn’t at all surprised when the lady taking the blood samples for malaria asked me if I wanted to dry my hands at her table. Oh yes please, Absolutely! I said full of gratitude at being able to compose myself and attempt to look somewhat more acceptable.

Except instead of a towel she handed me a lancet and the trembling hand of a little boy who had been suffering from malaria-like symptoms for the last few days. It was as I was cleaning his unfortunate finger with an antiseptic swab that I realised what had happened. She had actually asked me if I wanted to ‘try my hands at her table’.

There was no turning back. Either for the little boy or for me. I wiped my hands on my trousers, quickly donned a pair of surgical gloves and stabbed the poor child who looked utterly terrified at this sweaty, flustered, white fool whose own hands where shaking more than his. I aimed the lancet at the part I was told had fewest nerve endings and drew blood first and then a breath, forgetting that I was supposed to also be breathing. I marked the examination slide with his lab number and was just about to sit down in exhausted triumph to calm my shaking legs when the lab assistant said okay that was fine, you could have gone deeper but anyway – on to the next person.

I looked up and there was a long queue of people of all ages, waiting for me to make them bleed. All were staring at my quivering facial expression which I quickly attempted to transform into one of authority and competence.

Clearly, I just wasn’t going to dry off at all that day.